On Taquile Island, the custom when someone dies is to refrain from productive work until the body is buried. So that means no weaving knitting; no work in the fields. It’s OK to play volleyball and of course to cook food since we all have to eat.
A complete life
The Matriarch of our family Mercedes Cruz Huatta died in the wee hours of Friday, April 11. Her age is estimated at 109 years. She is survived by one daughter, 5 sons, and numerous grand- and great-grandchildren. Two daughters died before her. She didn’t have a birth certificate, so her age is estimated based on that of a girlfriend who did have a birth certificate. She was able to participate in household activities until about a month before her death, when she spent much of her time in bed.
Years ago, we participated in a burial and the body was sewn up in fabric. However, Mercedes was honored with a wooden casket. Silvano had gone to the house in the predawn hours, and we came later. I sat with the widower, Sebastian, who shared how “triste” he was feeling. I showed him pictures of his wife on my camera from 2019. They had been married for 30 years. After eating soup, the top of the casket was opened to view her face. Coca k’intus were made and shared.
Then the procession
The casket was carried to the burial site in a procession of about 40 people who witnessed and men dug the grave. The soil was clay and sand with, luckily and surprisingly, no rocks. We all shared coca and beer or sodas over the two and a half hours of digging.
They carefully measured the casket and at the moment of lowering it into the grave, a chorus of women broke out in harmonic songs.
We cover the casket in flowers before mounding up the dirt and sod. It was a rich and moving ceremony, followed by a procession in the dark, by a different route, to the house and a cleansing smoky smudge. Close family stayed late and Sam and I returned home.
The next day we/they wash everything.
Clothes worn to the burial, blankets from the sick room, more. We did our own here at the house, whereas others (close family) worked nearer the grieving household at the lakeshore. I’m told they will take a different route from the lake back home.
My understanding is that the spirits of the dead need to be acknowledged, redirected and maybe even confused. Hence, not walking back through the same path, so any lingering spirit can’t latch back on. And all the washing, the cleansing.
Church service and family day
The following Wednesday was to be the church funeral service and mass for our beloved Mercedes. We cooked and served sheep meat, both as soup and as barbecue for the participants. Sebastián offered two of his remaining 3 sheep to be served up in a family feast.
Tuesday I helped butcher two sheep by holding the legs, or fetching basins, while Silvano and Alipio did the hard work. We gave the sheep our gratitude, and they were killed and bled quickly.
On Wednesday, we got up at dawn to walk to Huyllano for the service. Saturn, Venus , and Mercury were still visible in the eastern sky (though you might barely see a pinpoint of light in this photo).
It was a mass in the Catholic Church.
Then back to the house for a breakfast soup, lots of coca, offerings, and stories. 
One of my favorite stories about Mercedes was when we traded a very small solar electric system with her, her first light besides candles. She was about 80 years old. It was when white LED’s had just been invented. The system was a 10w panel, a little solid-state battery and three small LED lights. When we visited her a week later, she clapped her hands together and said, ”I feel so young now that I have lights!“ That panel and the lights are still functioning; the battery has been replaced.
Patcha Manca
The cooking event was a Patcha Manca, earth oven, wherein flat rocks are built into an arched structure, heated for several hours by burning eucalyptus branches, and small logs.
When the rocks are hot enough, the arch is disassembled and reassembled with food. Foil has become the wrap of choice for the marinated meat, keeping the juices intact and everything clean. Meat first, then potatoes and oca (sometimes fava beans). Once all the layers are built up, a generous pile of muña (a perennial bush in the mint family) covers the rocks, then tarps , then soil, insulating the whole pile for another 1/2 hour. Waiting. Then the disassembly, serve and eat.
The extended family spent the entire day together.
